Travel Diary- Scotland

As promised, I have returned with the documentation of the second leg of my trip abroad—this time in Scotland!  I left my dear boyfriend to fly home alone as I went onward (via the tiniest plane I've ever boarded) to Edinburgh from Dublin.  I arrived four hours early to our lodgings with no professors in sight.  Once we'd all arrived and gone over our rules for the week we set out for lunch at the Mitre on the Royal Mile. 

It was here that I got my first taste of Scotland.  Venison Bangers and Mash with a deep Port jus and golden onion rings on top.

That evening we found ourselves a pub with a beautiful selection of alcohol, and christened our first night with a mini pub crawl.  It was here I had my first taste of Potato Leek soup, one of the two dishes which would ultimately get me through this week.

The next day we took a morning trip to Edinburgh Castle.  Once done several of us stopped for lunch on our way down the mile to Holyrood Palace.  A friend and I had really wanted to stop and have lunch at the Witchery, but the pricey menu had everyone else looking for something cheaper.  We ended up in a little sandwich shop further down the mile, which had once been the workshop of a famous good Samaritan turned serial killer from the 17-1800s.  It was here that I learned all sandwiches in Scotland come with butter.  As we would put mustard or mayonnaise or oil, they put butter.

 

On our next free day, several of us decided to take a trip to Portobello, on the north-eastern edge of the city.  Portobello was a rather familiar sight for those of us who have lived within 2 hours of the Jersey Shore our whole lives—as it was essentially the Scottish version.  Seagulls trying to steal food from small children, trash buried into the sand.  The buildings lining the walk are just older than those in NJ.

Near the sands and the waves of the North Sea, we found a little restaurant for lunch.  As was the case in much of Scotland (and in Ireland) the menu was very limited—bad news for a picky eater like me—so I ended up with what you see below.  Scottish Nachos.  A little burnt, but that sour cream is worth every stab of those sharp chips!  As it was in Ireland, so too are the dairy products in Scotland.

 Our next day trip a group of us decided to hop on a train and ride out to Glasgow on the other side of the country.  A short 1 hour ride and we arrived.  After a walk around the Modern Art Museum, my friend and I discovered the strange occurrence of cannibalism among Scottish Pigeons.  One of the strangest flavors of potato chip I've ever had was oddly compelling to these fowls.

For lunch we went to an Italian restaurant—because why not?!  There I ate a bowl of penne bolognese which was enormous, but satisfying.

After lunch we walked our way to Glasgow Cathedral, which was one of the most beautiful and gothic cathedrals I've ever seen.  Beside the cathedral was the Necropolis, a graveyard and park set on a high hill.  After a beautiful walk through the cemetery, and being harassed by a quite handsome, but quite crazy, scotsman about the political witches who controlled the world, we stopped at a pub for a break and some grub.  There I got the second of my staple foods for my time in Scotland—Onion Rings.  Beer battered, light, flaky and delicious fried onions.

After our excursions in Glasgow, I walked with my professor to the next town over to have dinner at the Sheep Heid Inn, the oldest surviving (and still operating) pub in Edinburgh.  I ordered the pork chops, which were thick cut with nearly as much fat as meat!  Served over mash and cabbage with a very good gravy.

The next day we had a day-trip to the edge of the highlands.  First we went to Sterling Castle, followed by lunch at Loch Lomond.  I had a delightful shepards pie, served over yorkshire pudding.  After lunch we climbed the steps up the mountain to see to view of the lake.  This was the part of Scotland I loved the most.

 

Our next stop on our tour of the highland edge was the Glengoyne Distillery.  We went on a tour of the Scotch distillery, which was enlightening and delicious.  For those alcohol connoisseurs reading this, if you ever find yourself in Scotland or Ireland with nothing to do, take a tour of a distillery.  Included in your tour is a tasting of several different years.

 

The 12 year old Scotch they started us off with before even setting foot on the tour route.

 This was the 18 year old Scotch we received at the end of the tour.

Our final night all together, my cohorts and I went out to a spanish tapas restaurant where we indulged in some pretty delicious places.  While I do not eat much seafood, I was surprised when one of my colleagues ordered prawns but didn't know how to go about eating them once they arrived.  I did my best to offer instructions from what I've seen on the Food Channel.

The star of the meal, by far, was the Paiea. Rice, onions, chorizo, chicken and saffron never tasted so sublime.  If they'd have let me I would have eaten the entire pan.

All in all my adventure through Scotland was slightly more limited than Ireland, though I learned some valuable lessons.  The Scottish put butter on everything, even cold-cut sandwiches and burgers, they ALWAYS cook their beef well-done, they don't offer many choices, and they don't always understand the concept of salt or seasoning.  However the regional dishes, such as Haggis, are worth a try as they are the best food you might have.  Surprises lay around every corner.

Until next time, keep experimenting in those labs and kitchens!  

XOXO- The Zombie Cook

Travel Diary—Food and Photography of my Trip to Ireland and Scotland

As a part of my graduate program, we were required to take a week long class in Edinburgh, Scotland.  Since I was going to be in that area for school, my boyfriend and I decided to stretch some money and take our summer vacation in Ireland.  We documented our entire journey through pictures—I think I took something in the region of 900 pictures—so I thought I would share the food adventure.

Our first day we arrived to Howth, Co. Dublin.  Had some hearty crepes—much thicker than I'm used to—and our first "traditional" Irish breakfast.

The most spectacular part was dessert though.

There is little that can compare to irish cream and butter, so it is easy to understand why their ice cream was so delicious!  It helped that during our trip the whole country was in the middle of a heat wave.  It was a scalding 70-80 degrees all week—which isn't much compared to PA—but one big difference is that they have NO airconditioning.  None.  Most of the B&Bs we stayed at didn't even have cieling fans.

Sunday, our second day we discovered not only that the Irish take their rugby very seriously (one of the towns we planned to stay in was booked solid for miles around, we could hardly drive through it the streets were so crowded) but that shops and restaurants—even in a city like Waterford—close EARLY on Sundays.  So we resorted to what we could find in the convenience store.

From Waterford, after a tour of the Viking tower and the crystal factory, we continued on to Kinsale, Co. Cork.  We arrived in the middle of a music festival and decided to try some festival food.  We decided on trying what the Irish consider Barbeque.

Pork roasted on the rotating spit—ala gyro—mixed with potatos and onions.  It was quite delicious, and perhaps the best seasoned dish we had on our trip!  I will admit in general, the Irish don't use many herbs, or spices, or salt.  This yummy street food was the oddity.  It even attracted a cute little begger.

Our dinner in Kinsale was had at The Lord Kingsale, which some people might recognize from travel ads.  It was a decent pub with some very good food.

 

Naturally, as we were in a pub, my boyfriend enjoyed himself a pint.  I know everyone who has ever been there says the Guinness tastes better—but it is true.  Something in the way the bartenders pour it.

For dinner Scott (my boyfriend) had Sol while I enjoyed some bangers and mash.  Some surprisingly spicey bangers and mash!

The next day I got my first taste of a traditional Irish lamb stew, though I admit it was wanting for salt.  I suspect if I had been able to get it from someones home instead it would have been yummier.

Next we moved on to Killarney, Co. Kerry.  We were hungry upon arrival so I could hardly take pictures before lunch was devoured.  We found a cute little cafe and had ourselves some colcannon twice baked potato, stuffed with potato, cabbage, cheese, and bacon.  As well as a sausage wrapped in puff-pastry (or whats left of one).

The next day we drove the Ring of Kerry, back-tracking back down to the town of Kenmare where we indulged in a deliciously cheap lunch.  Fresh baguette with grilled chicken, cole-slaw, and sauteed onions with chips (french fries) on the side with some local strawberries for dessert.

After lunch we drove the famous Ring of Kerry.  At first we weren't sure why it was so famous, most of the views of cows or trees or brush.  Then we saw this:

Make it Bigger!! Trust me on this one!

Breathtaking is an understatement.  After an amazing day driving through Kerry, we took the ferry over to Ennis, Co. Clare.  In Ennis I was finally able to find myself a menu with a steak—you'd think with as many cows in this country there would be more beef on their menus.  Scott tried the curry.  Apparently Indian food is to Ireland and Great Britain as Chinese food is to us in the U.S.

The next day we went to the Cliffs of Moher, another spot that from further away doesn't seem all that spectacular.  Then you climb up to the edge and WHOA.

 And no, these pictures have not been altered.  That is what they actually look like.  After another beautiful day, we found our dinner in a little rest-stop.  We were just hoping for something cheap and quick, what we got was Chicken ala King (aka breaded baked chicken) with mashed potatos (three scoops!) green beans, carrots and gravy.  It was huge!  and far more delicious than what I'm used to getting in a rest stop.

Our final night was spent back in Howth, where we indulged in a fishy feast—as it is a rather prosperous fishing village.

 Next time we'll look at my culinary tour of Scotland!  Until then—stay hungry!